You did remove the 220K bleeder resistors didn't you?

yes but someone had installed an extra 1m somewhere

But at least it got ya lookin'...and ya found it.

Will this work? I too like pictures (duhwing )

On #3, should I lift the entire rectifier wire that bridges the two + terminals and connect the 100k/1w to just the first +? Then there would be nothing connecting the two + terminals.

I guess same question for the 56k bleeder resistors. Do both + terminals need to stay connected? Sorry, I'm a newbie late to this. Many thanks!

yes, the terminals need to stay together. just unsoldier one end of the 56Ks. and use one leg of the 100k to bridge the terminals on #3

That's great, thanks Roe.

It's funny, I can make a nice and pretty graphic of it, but don't completely understand it at the same time.

Man, I really appreciate this forum as a mix of players and techs, best of both worlds.

And the fact that folks here who are heavy in the knowledge (and there are a lot of 'em) take the time to help those who are tech challenged to learn some along the way, and not kill themselves!!

Truly excellent. Rock on.

how about detaild instruction on how to do this with a 12 series with the cap board inside?? The diode wire goes from the diodes to the HT fuse holder. Is that where the 100k res goes?? Thanks Mark

Ok so al little over a year after my initial question I finlly had my build to a stage to where I could try this. I'm not sure about the result though. I let the amp sit for 24h. After about 13h it was down to about 8V but never went lower after 23-24h it went up to 9V again.

Not sure if I should change the caps or not? They are brand new J/J caps.

Ok so according to what Larry said earlier if the voltage does not drop below 5V the caps are questionable. To test this I replace the J/Js with the blue F&Ts that I normally use. And guess what. 9h later and down to 3,8V. WTF? What's up with the J/Js?

F&T caps are the best. i got them with my amp instead of the JJ's, im sorry but i hear nothing but bad things about them. i got some bad el34's from them once and my mind is made up. cant be thrifty with certain parts. IMHO.

Hi, i have a question about reforming. After just reading the instructions i don't understand if it's enough to measure the voltage drop just across the first filter cap or i should repeat the measure for every filter cap in the circuit. Because if for example the PI filter cap needs to be changed how can i know it just measuring the voltage drops on the first filter cap?

If at the end i'm only able to reach 10V instead of 5V or lower, how is about my filter caps? should i changed because 10V is really bad, or could i play with the amp fine anyway?

I mean: is there much difference if i get stuck on 10V or if i reach 5V?

measure across the 100k resistor, not the cap.
10v means its ok
5v means good
2v means great

yes, i switched them off yesterday, because they were stuck at 8V (one is a jmp 2203 from '78 and the other is a jmp 1959 from '79).

Today i will listen if there are any differences.

By the way i'm waiting for 15 new ARS 50+50uF caps to replace these dalys if they will need (and i think that they need!)

I wouldn't swap orig. Daly's, as long as they reach less than 10V across the 100K resistor by forming within a 24h forming process. The ARS's won't give you the sound of Daly's, LCR's or Erie's.

Larry